Sustainable Fashion

Sham Tyra Partners With Princess Joan Tebatagwabwe Nassolo to Promote Barkcloth

By Hassan Ssentongo | May 13, 2022

The pandemic may have loosened its grip on the fashion industry, but demand for sustainable fashion, which became ‘a thing’ during that time, continues to grow significantly. And, one Ugandan designer is doing something about it.

“Uganda has for long suffered an identity crisis. We don’t have a fabric we can call our own,” Sham Tyra Nalwanga, founder and proprietor of the Sham Tyra brand.

“Barkcloth is made from a fig tree, (Ficus Natalensis or Natal Fig) locally known as Mutuba. “Working with the fabric is no easy feat,” she isn’t shy to declare this. “I completely understand why many designers shun it. It’s rough and hard.” However, she adds, “this, to me, is also why I’m a huge fan of it. I always gravitate toward things that are complicated to work with.”

Barkcloth is also a very ethical fabric. “Its production does not require cutting down of trees. It also requires limited water for its survival,” Nalwanga explains. As she champions the use of this revered fabric, Nalwanga partnered with Princess Joan Tebatagwabwe Nassolo, daughter to reigning Kabaka of Buganda Ronald Muwenda Mutebi II, on a custom designed look for her to wear. The royal, who is passionate about the promotion of local Buganda culture, wears the look in photos accompanying this story. “I love this piece!” she gushes. “Not only is it a fun piece, but I love the blend of traditional and modern fabrics on it” she tells me.

The use of barkcloth, as you can see, has for long been associated with royalty. “However, the fact that it was used during traditional ceremonies such as funerals clouded its impression, and it’s why it is now associated with witchcraft and evil,” explains Princess Nassolo.

To create the look, Nalwanga mixed taffeta fabric with barkcloth, playing with cut-out patterns that run along the waist all the way down the skirt. She did the same using barkcloth to finish the hemlines on the sleeves. The designer completed the look with sparkly embroidery running along the bust and sleeves.

Nalwanga plans to produce a full collection showcasing more modern takes on barkcloth, and is excited at how responsive Ugandans will be. “I see a lot of West Africans looking elegant in their local fabrics while attending high-heeled events. It’s high time we picked some cues and embraced our own too,” she concludes.