New York Fashion Week still stands as one of the world’s premier fashion events. A grand stage for displaying the best American designers and beyond, the bi-annual showcase (held in February and September), is also a hot pipeline into the U.S. market. At several points, African designers have popped on the NYFW radar, showing their collections on the catwalk.
For the first time in NYFW’s history, African brands namely Stoned Cherrie (South Africa), Xuly Bet (Mali), Momo Couture (Nigeria), and Tiffany Amber (Nigeria) were received in the Bryant Park tents as part of the African Fashion Collective. African designers have continued to make inroads since then. Below are the African brands that will be showcasing their collections at NYFW 2023.
Victor Anate
While Nigerian designer Victor Anate won’t showcase at NYFW with his edgy womenswear brand Vicnate, he has lent his creativity as a co-collaborator, designing Naomi Campbell’s first collection for Pretty Little Thing. Anate, alongside Jamaican-born, Brooklyn-based Edvin Thompson of Theophilio, are the two young designers recruited by the legendary supermodel to bring her collection for the fast fashion giant to life.
Heralding NYFW this week, it debuted as a runway show on September 5, featuring a 70-piece collection of outerwear, mesh dresses, sleek pantsuits, and more. With this already done, it goes into Anate’s impressive growing and promising portfolio.
Sukeina
Sculptural dresses, intricate weaving, and dramatic silhouettes are just some of signature codes he’s incorporated into the brand. His collections have also been influenced by tribal motifs on the continent. For his Fall 2022 presentation, the garments embraced the lively patterns of Bantu attire, found in Eastern, Central and Southern Africa.
Sukeina made its NYFW debut in 2020, a careful construction of sheer looks, origami dresses, and flapper-style mesh pieces.
Head of State
Now based in Brooklyn, New York, (his parents had won the lottery in 2010), Taofeek uses Head of State as a cultural bridge between Nigeria and America. Through clothes, the brand has been all about finding a balance between the two. Traditional elements of Nigerian style (whether silhouettes, embroidery, etc) are realized with a modern flair.“Nigeria is rough but I think we as people operate with a sense of joy and pride and it carries over in our style,” Abijako told OkayAfrica in a 2018 interview.
Studio 189
Founded in 2013 by Abrima Erwiah and actress Rosario Dawson, the sustainable brand is driven by an artisanal pulse, working with local craftspeople in a way that promotes their skills and empowers them through employment. Currently operating from Accra and the U.S., Studio 189 is more than just a brand. It’s also a social enterprise, supporting various community-led projects on the continent and in the U.S.
Kílèntár
Founded by Michelle Adepoju in 2019, Kílèntár is a Nigeria contemporary womenswear brand with an aesthetic that’s playful and flatteringly feminine. The brand also has an infusion of African sartorial elements like cowries, indigo-dyeing (adire), and hand-weaving. Kílèntár is one of the youngest brands in the NYFW’s African designer lineup, and will present under the banner of The Black in Fashion Council Discovery Showroom, including Korlekie, Onalaja, Fumi the Label, and Tia Adeola.
Korlekie
With a BA in Fashion Design from De Montfort University in Leicester, Beatrice Korlekie Newman launched Korlekie in 2013 right from her bedroom in Peckham, London. The British-Ghanaian designer was making one-off pieces in African textiles for the women in her local church. Known for its chic, elevated knitwear and crochet, the brand has attracted A-list clients like Rita Ora, Anna Freil, Ellie Goulding, and Alesha Dixon.
Further, Korlekie takes inspiration from traditional craft from Ghana, combining lush materials with sensuality for the modern woman.
Onalaja
The brand is also size-inclusive, with its bodycon dresses made to fit over a wide range of body sizes. It’s why the brand’s Zusi dress has been a bestseller, embracing the feminine form in all its diversity. Love Island alum Indiyah Polack and Kandi are some of the celebrities that have been spotted wearing it.
Tia Adeola
Tia Adeola’s eponymous brand has shown at NYFW before. The first was the brand’s debut – Autumn/Winter 2020 collection that sent models down the runway in its signature sheer and ruffles. They were sexy, quite provocative, and took inspiration from sartorial codes from the Renaissance period.
Born in New York and raised in London, Tia Adeola is a 2019 graduate of the Parsons School of Design and has become an exciting new designer, drawing a cult following that includes Gigi Hadid, Flo Milli, SZA, and more.
Fumi the Label
Toronto-based designer Fumi Egbon is the founder of Fumi the Label, a ready-to-wear womenswear brand that prioritizes comfort, elegance, and sophistication. Launched in 2016, the brand deals in bright hues, breathable garments, and the potential for wardrobe-building styling.
This article was originally seen in OkayAfrica
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