The Evolution Of La Sape: Sartorial Style In Africa

La Sape, short for “Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes” (Society of Ambiance-Makers and Elegant People) began as a “transaction” between the Belgium-French colonialists at the beginning of the 20th century where Congolese slaves worked for second-hand suits

Off the clock, Congolese men began to dress like “French gentlemen” admired by their fellow countrymen and characterised by colourful, sometimes over-the-top haute couture, luxury loafers, accessories like bowler hats, canes, and sunglasses, and a cool, slick walk that oozed charisma, energy and joy.

They became known as sapeurs (sapeuses for women) and were class and elegance personified. At the time, La Sape was a social commentary on taking control of their – once thought to be colonised – destinies. Sapeurs used this movement as an escape from their misery, which became inspiring and uplifting not only to the sapeurs themselves, but also to their respective communities.

La Sape only developed legs as a “fashion movement” in the 1970s when now notable names in the movement, including Stervos Niarcos; the former president of the DRC Joseph Mobutu; and legendary musician and style icon Papa Wemba influenced the development of the movement. Papa Wemba especially made La Sape very popular through his music in the Congo, Europe and many African countries.

Most Congolese dandies or sapeurs come from middle-class or sometimes very poor families and have ordinary day jobs as policemen, taxi-drivers, tailors and gardeners, but by night, a sapeur can look like a millionaire.

Over the last four decades La Sape has spread to other corners of the African continent and beyond, and relatively recently includes women and children, evolving a once curious sartorial subculture exclusive to men in the heart of Africa, into a way of life

It’s worth noting, however, the excessive and often financially crippling spending which can turn sapeurs into slaves of fashion. Traditionally, sapeurs from the Congo would wear expensive haute couture brands from Europe, like Kenzo, Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Givenchy and JM Weston for shoes.

La Sape has evolved to represent more than just expensive labels. La Sape has become a way of life steeped in colonial history using the bright colours and bold patterns of traditional African dress on clothing deemed European.

Models: @de_lasape (@swaggy_mo@juliusantwi_@abusalam___@zaawadi )Wardrobe: @henrycoutureparis
Photography: @kylerjvmes

Source: NFH