How Well Do You Know The History Of The Kanzu?

If the gomesi is Barbie Kyagulanyi then Bobi Wine would be the Kanzu. The kanzu is a generically white or cream colored ankle –length tunic worn by men in Uganda as a traditional or festive attire. It’s an important dress that like the Gomesi, draws its popularity from the Buganda tribe of central Uganda. So what’s the big deal with the plain dress that men don which gives them an aura of authority and sophistication? More likely than not, a man in a kanzu is bound to be a “man of culture.” 

Kanzu is a Kiganda word that translates into “robe.” This terminology is of Swahili origin considering that the dress was first introduced to Buganda Kingdom by Arab traders. Yep. Arab traders, I’m talking first half of the 19^th century. As with any grand trend, the royals picked up on the Kanzu with Kabaka Ssuuna having been the first Kabaka to wear the tunic. The Kanzu was high society fashion, reserved for the classiest of the brood; those who could afford to buy it from the Arab traders, chiefs or kings courtiers. It was made out of cotton and linen materials that were as coveted as they were expensive.

If there’s anything we know about humanity though, it’s that if there is anything worth having, we’ll make a cheap knock off version of it for the rest of us who can’t afford the luxury. Hair, iPhones, shoes, watches etcetera. The Kanzu was no exception. The ordinary Baganda men begun making the kanzu out of the nearest material they could find-bark cloth. But hey- mimicry is the highest form of compliment. With time, silk and poplin were incorporated into the manufacture of the regal looking ensemble. The Indians and Arabs brought in these cheaper fabrics upon realizing the popularity of the Kanzu.

While the Kanzu is of Arab origin, that doesn’t mean it is completely devoid of Ugandan influence. While adopting it, some changes were made to its design and I honestly 100 % stan. This is in reference to the hand-sewn embroidery around the collar, abdomen and sleeves that goes by the name of Omulela. (For all you bad Baganda who had no idea.) This is particularly unique to the Baganda Kanzu.

Another unique aspect of the attire is the addition of a coat or blazer that was an inspiration from the colonial British dress style in the 1930’s to 1940’s. Unlike the Muslims who prefer to keep it plain, the Baganda spear-headed a stylish fusion of European and African fashion that still reigns supreme. Today though you can find one made out of silk, cotton, linen or poplin. The color can also vary as some fashion designers are switching it up with new palettes and design templates.

Years have passed and the Kanzu still remains an iconic symbol of culture and ceremony. I remember everyone getting their panties in a twist over Daniel Kaluuya donning one on the Black Panther premiere. And honestly, I do not find the ceaseless obsession with this particular piece of fashion over hyped. If it’s not broken-don’t fix it.

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