Skincare

10 Steps to Clearer Skin When You’ve Literally Tried Everything Else

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If you’re constantly battling breakouts and struggling to stay on top of your skin, you’ll know how mentally draining it can be pursuing clear skin. Your face can often feel uncomfortable, sore, inflamed and sensitive, and let’s not even get started on trying to apply makeup to skin that won’t play ball.

Sometimes constant acne can lead to desperate measures, and if you’ve tried everything from switching up your skincare products, keeping a food diary, DIY face masks and more, but nothing seems to be working, we’ve got just the thing.

Firstly, it’s important to keep in mind that adult acne is very common. It affects 95% of 11-30 year-olds according to the NHS, and common triggers include stress, alcohol, diet, but also factors outside of your control such as hormones.

Managing spots doesn’t always require professional medical help, but in some cases it does, so if you’ve ever wondered if you’re missing a trick or if it’s worth saving up for an appointment, expert dermatologists have helpfully answered all our burning questions.

We’ve got you covered on everything from lifestyle factors impacting your skin health to the products we rate for calming and clearing skin. These tips will help if you’re at your wits end with pesky blackheads, whiteheads that won’t go away and painful cysts.

1. Pare back your skincare routine

Constant breakouts and social media feeds full of people with seemingly perfect skin (remember, filters aren’t always obvious) can manifest into feeling desperate about managing your skin. This can result in an overcomplicated skincare routine.

Dr Emma Craythorne, consultant dermatologist at OneWelbeck Skin Health and Allergy, says that one of the most common mistakes people make is “not understanding the type of acne they have. This can result in people using the wrong ingredients or applying too many products to compensate.” She stresses that a simple and repetitive approach is key.

“The best skincare regime is a consistent one that addresses specific skin concerns,” seconds Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, founder and medical director of Adonia Medical Clinic. “To see the biggest benefit, it is best to maintain skin treatments and skincare for a minimum of a skin cycle (at least 6-8 weeks).” So, try to be patient with a pared-back routine that doesn’t involve using too many harsh products at once.

2. Double cleanse before bed

Tip number two: never go to sleep with your makeup on. No matter what time it is, or how many drinks you’ve had, always wash your face before bed. Then, do it again. “Ensuring that your skin is thoroughly cleansed should be your top priority,” says Niamh Ryan, skin expert and co-founder of Ella & Jo Cosmetics. “Your entire skincare routine rests on this one step.”

“Your first cleanse will remove surface makeup, product build-up and daily grime, while your second cleanse will clean the skin itself,” continues Ryan. On the days that you wear makeup, use an oil-based cleanser first. And on the other days, try a cleansing milk. “For your second cleanse, I would recommend a formula containing salicylic acid as this is great for oily and blemish-prone skin.”

3. Exfoliate often

“Exfoliation will help shed dead skin cells, unclogging pores, allowing your skincare products to penetrate better, and leaving your skin looking healthier and more radiant,” assures Dr Sophie Shotter, aesthetic doctor and founder of Illuminate Skin Clinic. To help clear skin, go for chemical exfoliants over physical exfoliants.

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“I would usually introduce AHAs and BHAs two-to-three times per week,” says Shotter. Salicylic acid (a BHA) works wonders on oily skin types, “as it penetrates really well.” If you have rosacea or sensitive skin, “stick to PHAs like gluconolactone as they moisturise while gently exfoliating.”

4. But not too often

When it comes to exfoliation, there is indeed a sweet spot. Overdo it and the skin’s barrier function can become compromised. “Exfoliants shouldn’t burn or irritate the skin,” says Shotter. If they do, chances are you’re hitting the scrubs, toners and peels a little too hard. Redness, dryness, burning, peeling and pimples are all signs of over-exfoliated skin.

To avoid this, introduce chemical exfoliants (aka skincare acids) two-to-three times a week and for physical exfoliants, “only use them twice a week.” Top tip? “Please never use ground up nutshell exfoliators – the ragged edges can cause micro scarring of the skin,” warns Shotter.

5. Strengthen your skin barrier

A good skin barrier is the secret to clear skin. “The outermost layer is important because it serves as the first line of defence against environmental aggressors such as pollution, germs and irritants, while also preventing moisture loss from the skin,” explains Dr Alexis Granite, CeraVe consultant dermatologist. Skin with a disrupted barrier may be dehydrated and flaky as well as red and irritated, “it may also be more prone to breakouts and dermatitis,” she continues. To maintain a healthy skin barrier, Granite recommends hydrating products that contain ceramides, glycerine and hyaluronic acid.

6. Clean your screen

Noticed an uptick in breakouts on or around your cheeks? It could be linked to your mobile phone. “Dirt, makeup and oil can all accumulate on our screens,” says Iris Maglanoc, aesthetic therapist at Dr David Jack clinic. And every time we pick up that screen and hold it to our face, we reintroduce those germs onto our skin, which can lead to congested pores.

“Breakouts that are caused by our mobile phones typically appear on the cheeks,” confirms Iris. To prevent phone-caused breakouts, regularly clean your screen with an antibacterial wipe to get rid of germs.

7. Wash your makeup brushes

Another breeding ground for bacteria? Makeup brushes. Dust, dirt, oil, residual makeup and dead skin cells can all accumulate on makeup brushes – which is why it’s so important to clean your best makeup brushes and sponges on the regular. Not only will it save your skin from a bout of breakouts, but it will also help to keep your tools in tip top shape. “I wipe mine down daily with a makeup wipe, and then clean them with shampoo once per week,” says Shotter.

8. Avoid picking or popping pimples

While it’s very tempting, the experts all advise against popping or squeezing spots. Why? “Picking at spots can worsen inflammation, increase the risk of scarring and introduce bacteria into the skin,” says Ejikeme. Instead, apply a spot remedy containing salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. “These ingredients can help unclog pores, reduce spot-causing bacteria, and promote skin cell turnover,” adds Ejikeme.

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9. Wash your face after exercise

If you’re a regular gym-goer, remember to always clean your skin after exercise. “Even if you’ve done your morning skincare routine before going to the gym, you’ll still want to wash again after exercise to remove sweat,” says Shotter, who adds that “stale sweat gives bacteria a perfect chance to flourish.” She carries a bottle of Clinisoothe+ Skin Purifier,  in her gym bag to cleanse with after exercise – “it helps to rebalance the microbiome.”

10. Wear sunscreen every day

If your daily skincare regime ends with a generous application of your best face sun screen, here’s a virtual pat on the back. “Sun protection is vital to maintaining skin health and preventing signs of skin ageing such as pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles,” points out Granite. And with so many sunscreen formulations now available, it is easier than ever to find a product that is well suited to your skin. Follow Ejikeme’s advice and “apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day, even on cloudy days.

This article was originally published in Glamour UK

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